Adjunct Skin Care Products and Their Uses:
There are so many different types of products that can be added to a skin care routine that, well honestly, it can be downright overwhelming. Let me help you figure out what they are and why we should use them.
Serum:
A good quality serum is made with natural ingredients that are meant to nourish and heal the skin. The molecules are light weight enough to be suspended in a solution that is applied to the face once it has been cleaned thoroughly. When applied to the skin, it is meant to penetrate deeper to address skin issues.
The serum must be followed by a day or a night time moisturizer in order to create a seal and add moisture. Some serums can add hydration, sooth irritated or inflamed skin, make the skin firmer, slow the aging process, remove pigmentation or act as an anti-oxidant.
Masks:
Face masks are one of the most used facial products after basic skin care. They are versatile, can be fun to use and usually provide good results. The type of mask you use will depend on your skin type and need. Some masks can help hydrate dry skin, remove excess oils and help improve the appearance of the pores. They’re also a great way to pull out impurities that clog your pores. Some can have firming, plumping, brightening and anti-aging properties as well.
The desired outcome will determine the type of mask you will want to use. If you want to add extra hydration, you will use a cream mask. Clay or charcoal masks are ideal for people with oily skin. Gel masks will help with plumping or firming of the skin. Peel off or sheet masks help remove impurities that stick to the mask membrane as it is removed. Finally, as discussed in part one of this blog, exfoliating masks help remove dead skin cells to allow your serum to penetrate deeper to increase the beneficial effects.
Eye Creams:
The skin around our eyes is the thinnest skin on the body therefore, it tends to have its own issues. It tends to get puffy, can show dark shadowing or have a more wrinkled appearance than the rest of the face.
Eye creams are developed to tend specifically to these issues. Applying eye cream in the morning and evening before your moisturizer can help reduce swelling around the eyes.
Many people have dark shadows under their eyes no matter how much sleep or rest they get. There are eye creams on the market that help brighten these dark circles by encouraging microcirculation or blood flow below the skin to reduce some of the dark pigmentation that tends to collect when the blood isn’t flowing well.
The thinness of the skin around the eyes also makes it more vulnerable to sun damage and creases. Some eye creams contain properties that will help hydrate and plump the skin, decrease its transparency and improve the resiliency by stimulating production of collagen and elastin. Collagen and elastin is what gives our skin the tightness and elasticity it needs to maintain a youthful appearance.
Vitamin A/Retinoids:
Vitamin A/Retnoids (tretinoin) and their derivatives are often used for treating acne, photoaging, (sun damaged skin) hyperpigmentation (dark spots), actinic keratosis (scaly growth), rough skin, wrinkles and to help other products like skin lighteners get absorbed.
One of the brand names for these is Retinol-A and it is available in cream, lotion and gel form. It takes tretinoin approximately 2-8 weeks for acne to respond to treatment and several months of continued use for wrinkle and fine lines to respond. Tretinoin helps blood flow which in turn improves skin elasticity and colour.
The action of tretinoins is thought to increase cell turnover from the base layer of the skin and by removing the dead cells on the surface of the skin. This in turn helps decrease inflammation inside the layers of the skin. Consistent use will help abnormal skin cells like actinic keratosis or sundamaged skin to normalize.
Some of the side effects of tretinoin may include skin peeling, dryness, swelling, stinging, breaking down of acne comedomes and preventing new acne lesions from forming. Because the skin becomes much thinner and at risk of sun burn or damage, it is of outmost importance to wear a sun screen when using tretinoin. Finally, avoid applying tretinoin around the corners of the eyes, of the mouth and of the nose as it can cause increased irritation.
Skin Lightners:
Hydroquinone is an ingredient found in formuations of creams or lotions that are used to lighten skin, decrease pigments from sun exposure and treat melasma (skin pigmentation changes often associated with pregnancy). While it is the treatment of choice for treating skin pigmentation and melasma there was controversy regarding its safety in long term continued use. However, it is now considered safe and effective when used on the skin in approved doses.
Some of the side effects of Hydroquinone are mild and may include skin dryness, irritation, peeling, erythema and/or stinging or burning. Sun avoidance is vital as the effects of the sun will cause more skin pigmentation to darken and worsen side effects of the product.
It goes without saying that if you are being treated for hyperpigmentation caused by damaging effects of the sun, a certain level of commitment is required on your part to ensure you are not reversing the desired effect by exposing yourself to the sun.
Azelaic Acid (AA) is also frequently used to treat melasma, rosacea and acne. It has become more widely used as a skin lightener due to the concerns over the side effect profile of hydroquinone and tretinoin. AA causes les skin irritation than hydroquinone and tretinoin however, it is less effective in the treatment of hyperpigmentation. It is a good option for people with sensitive skin. A common side effect of AA is a slight stinging sensation at first but this is short lived. It can also be used in combination with other skin lightening products such as tretinoin or hydroquinone to improve efficacy. It can also help prevent certain skin melanomas from progressing and it has a very good safety profile.
The goal of the medical aesthetic practitioner such as myself is to help patients such as yourself navigate the maze of products that will help you achieve your desired appearance and treat your skin conditions. Book a consultation with a certified aesthetic practitioner to discuss your concerns. You will obtain customized recommendations for skin treatments that will help you achieve your desired appearance and the healthiest skin possible.
We are looking forward to seeing you soon.
Linda Lafrance MScN, NP PHC
Chi Medical Aesthetics
Chi Medical Aesthetics 